Voie Rebuffat - Eperon des Cosmiques

  Taking advantage of the approaching "summer"- in fact the Alpine Summer would be more correct. Climbing the classic Voie Rebuffat at Eperon des Cosmiques 

With a 7 day window with no work we tried to get the most out of a week with combined activities of skiing and climbing. With the weather gods a little against our planes and ideas, working against us sort of, we decided to make at least one good try to get an alpine rock climb in there...somewhere.

Eperon des Cosmiques

The easiest and best plan would be Eperon at Aiguille du Midi and the Voie Rebuffat. A 6 pitch route up les Cosmiques with old style UIAA grade VI maximum, over the small roof.
A great rock climb but in our weather condition turned out to be more of an Alpine adventure. Just a great day out!!

The approach or actually pitch 1, just snow at this time.

High quality rock. Anna follows on pitch 3 over the roof

Belay at top of pitch 4, already occupied by locals

Topo
Le Topo du massif du Mont Blanc - Michel Piola
Camptocamp

You need
1 set of nuts
1 set of friends Green-Red Alien, #0.75-3.0 BD
50m rope
Iceaxe
Crampons

1. //Never give up, it's such a wonderful life

Alpine conditions a Chamonix

Alpine conditions a Chamonix

Since we have had winter the whole summer it doesn’t seem more than right that we get a bit of extra summer now when the winter supposed to arrivée.

The last weeks has been perfect for a bit of rocking around doing rock climbing, specially on the south facing sides. The north faces has been a bit chilly...yes I agree on that.

As most of us have seen the lack of snow is quite obvious in the western parts of the Alps, not to bad in the eastern parts actually. But still long way from a ”normal” winter. What ever could be normal these days…

But, with an open mind and free soul, there is a whole bunch of thing to do. As this monday I found the perfect conditions to ski off the north side of Mont Joly towards le Planay. A great line but most of the time to scary and prone to avalanches. Not mentioning the Bisons at the lower part, KEEP skiers LEFT!!

As with the conditions in the high mountains. A lot of mixed and alpine routes are in perfect ”nick” and now when the lifts are starting to open up, the Italians has kept the Helbronner lift open the whole autumn (lets hope it stay that way). 

From Helbronner and Torino even some unusual lines has been in for a mixed up climbing as well as some steeper ski runs has been doable and quite safe to ski off.

The snow is very wind slabed in places and the lack of snow shouldn’t  take the seriousment out of the day, a little more like Scottish conditions as you might find on places like Ben Nevis. No snow…no snow…but then on that spot…there is a whole load and hard effected by wind as well and POW, there the whole thing goes. Worst case, your in it! So take care and do not just judge because the lack of the normal amount of deep powder snow. The fall has been very dramatic, windy and warm. Which make the ground control a bit worried and different. 

A Classic peak.

Le Tour Ronde - easily accessed from Torino and Helbronner has a whole bunch of classic alpine routes. The other day we went up and got a go on ”voie Rebuffat” a nice D+ route with one pitch with some delicate mixed climbing. And if you skip the last pitch its possible to rap the route back down on fixed belays. A great climb all in all.

Crux part of the "Voie Rebuffat"

On the approach I saw that the North Face was in perfect shape as well so with a totally free day off I had a late breakfast before I brought the Ford to the tunnel under madame Blanc. 

A quick approach to the base of the face on the wind blown snow, changing to crampons from skis and as always when crossing a bergschrund solo…the pulse goes up…but after the road is clair. Since I have climbed the regular NF a couple of times before I headed for the Buscaini variation. 

Which hold some 4c mixed parts and full on enough 4 sure. A great climb and a bit more interesting than just hammering up its neighbour. 

Once on top I put the skis on to try and ski down the south SE ridge, but a narrow rock corp force me to take them of for a couple of meter to down climb a few meters before I can continue down and make the moving round tour in a bit under the hour.

   

And at the time being, use the situation as best as possible, stay on top!

//La seule chose permanente est le changement

Mixed up north and south face of aiguille Midi - the perfect summit route tour!

Aig Midi "Le Fil a Plombe - "Voie Rebuffat/Baquet" Face sud Cosmiques

Geared up for an old school climb...?

With a bit of imagination and fantasy there is a whole bunch of options for everything. And finding a classic combination of mixed and pure rock could be one of them?!

The options of climbs from plan du Aguilles in Cham is of course over the limit. But to make use choisir the obvious "le fil a plombe" makes a superb one. And a route that is in perfect nick at the moment. 

Approached from plan de l ´Aiguille and Glaicer des Pèlerins, a 1 1/2h marche a pied….and then a 700mts climb at M4/TD-

Fil a Plombe M4/TD- 700mts, the thin strike of ice to the left of the big seracs

The start is very forward, specially at this time since the sun has put the snow base at its best conditions for a foot approach, nacking hard neige! And same for the first pitches up the snow couloir all the way to the bottom of the crux of the route. 

A 50m 80-85degree ice section which I guess has sent the name of the route. And ce moment…is a little…dèlicate…! Mais bonne!
Depart

Off course we didn't make the first bin up to Plan, but since the plan was to bivvy at ref. Cosmiques there was no rush…and with an other gang teams of 4, the risk of getting up to the Compagnies CMB last retour was long gone anyhow

First things first, pitch 1 or something similar… easy warm up terrain

After a peaceful approach we tied in up the glacier Pelerins and en route changed from one to two axes as the cheminèe got steeper, until sat put at the crux pitch. Which was loaded with people, but not so much ice.
Still, enough to hook one self up on. Like a drummer on a beaux minces, just light handed. And a good way of saving time of placing ice screws, since it felt useless, more decoration sort of...

Crux pitch of Fil a Plombe, a drummer...

The "le Fil" is actually a very nice climb, its a reason for its busy time!

Easy approach, no objective dangers and a nice sortie up the traverse the plan to Midi. And with the conditions given to us; sun, zero wind and nice climbers around, juste voila!

Second crux pitch on le Fil...

Finally up the last bit of snowcouloir we got the wind though! So one hand on the ice axe and one on top of the hat to keep it in place, we went wobbling back the ridge towards the refuge and a well deserved dinner, hoppla 

High and happy…just pure joy!

Last bit up to the ridge…just a trip back "home"

DAY 2

Ref. Cosmiques. Which as always serves the most great dinners and the home baked bread makes the breakfast tip top!

So the next morning wasn't just sunny, it was a happy stomach as well. Prepared to work it self up the granite face of Cosmique face sud

Ref. Cosmiques, so much more then just great food…le belle vuie!

Crampons changed to rock shoes, axes to chalk bag and ices crews to jamgloves. A great journey continues towards the summit of Midi. 

And just the fact that monsieur´s Rebuffat and Maurice Baquet climbed this route 1956! But Gaston, he wasn't known for not being a hard passionate grimpeur. So there is no surprise that the grade is HARD at its given 6a/TD, et oui!

Cosmiques face sud, Rebuffat/Baquet voie

It is a un bonne ballade just ignore the grading, its just a number and the retour down back to Chamonix is spectacular as well as always with the CMB Télépherique. THX ´s for the ride back down 

Lars fighting gravity, doing well!

Free basing on Voie Rebuffat/Baquet, alternative variant

Lars fighting gravity, doing well!

Equipment

le Fil a Plombe; 50m rope, some small/mid size camalotes, a few stoppers and 2-6 ice screws
Rebuffat/Baquet; 50m rope, Camalots 0.4-2.0, a few mid size stoppers and 8 QD´s

Details at 

http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54574/fr/aiguille-du-midi-face-s-voie-rebuffat-baquet

http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54779/en/rognon-du-plan-le-fil-a-plomb

// L'aventura è dentro di noi (Walter Bonatti)

Voie Rebuffat aiguille de Peigne

The north west pillar on the upper part of Peigne has some well kept secret cracks. Well, maybe not so secret since they are visible from the village of Cham. But anyhow

Aig du Peigne

Cracks that Monsieur Rebuffat off course has found out and climbed long time ago. But still holds its grade and gives some great pitches of everything from fingers, rattle, up to heavy duty off width!

 

The alarm set on to early I feel a lot for just staying in my comfortable bed. But after a couple of snoozes I pull myself out and get downstairs for a good coffee to start with

I can't really see the point if heading away with the first lift for this small, short and quite easy tour...

Our plan, head up to plan de aiguille, walk up to Peigne and climb Lepidoptere. And then scramble up to the upper face and the NO pillar of the Peigne. The beautiful Rebuffat cracks, which is said to seldom be climbed

One reason off course would be that it's loong way to get to, second that its supposed to be quite hard regarding the altitude and grade, up to UIAA VII/6c

Arriving at the base their is an other team just heading off the second pitch. But Lepidoptere is a quite active route so not suprised. We just take it slow for a while giving them some time

 

A super cold morning makes one mostly want to keep to "slabjamming", fist wise sort off...The first pitches up to the Papillon arête goes quick and easy, despite the cold air. At some places their is even a thin layer of ice covering the rock. But it's easy to avoid. Up at the arête we can finally get some heating sun on our frozen souls and the going goes even easier

Classic "slab jamming"...

After a pitch of airy but easy climbing on the arête we continue climbing together just short roping. But it's quite a lot of scrambling to get to the upper wall, but all on very easy terrain

At 12:00 we are happily standing below the first Rebuffat pitch. And to our surprise one more team as well with the same intention. A team from Tasmania off all places!

We share some belays and stories but at the finger crack crux they decide to take it a bit slower so we leave them behind

The finger crack

Actually seen all the way from the valley and Cham the crack is just as good as it looks. Perfect fingers at the start getting a bit wider up to hands and open fist higher up. Finishing up to a big ledge below the next interesting part, the off width!

A no#4 cam supports the firsts moves but after a #6 would have been the only choice, or even bigger... Just great excellent climbing on perfect Chamonix granit!

Then it's a short section of easy climbing again before the twin crack pitch. Which also holds an open dièdre and a very suspect downward section that is just made to give some rope drag of the year. Just make sure not to clip the pitons or place any gear. Otherwise you will probably need to climb back to free the rope. Or, maybe the use of twin ropes would be good at this point...?!

 

My single lead rope would be a nightmare so I continue without placing any gear. But, since the climbing is easy on more brilliant cracks that's no issue

Next thing I know I'm under the summit it self. And judge of my suprise... A train scoup is to be found on the top!

Anna, playing the angry train...woman...doing to well...!

Time to head down... To a loong waiting cup of java and a nice bivvy for next days climbing...

Evening over le Plan, tres bien!

 

You need

Voie no81...

1x60m rope(ok for the rappels as well) 1 small set of mid size wires, cams up to #4 Camalot (2 of 0.5-1.0) 5QD's minimum

 

 

 

 

// att definiera betyder att utestänga och begränsa...

 

Mountainpassion