Star Academixte M6 - Ski in, ski out

Reached via the aig. Midi lift pointe Lachenal is a most pratique place to climb on on an lazy day in the mountains

And, don't miss a visit to the glass minter a top of Midi

Depending on the number of people on the arete down to the glacier and the amount of neige poudreuse, the approach is still just a few minutes away. And only downhill. Park the skis at the base of the rock and start climbing. Once on the top there is good rappel anchors in place on most of the routes, so just rap back to the ski boots. Or if you are equipped with Dynafit TLT ones, or similar, just rap in to the bindings of the skis and there is a Vallee Blanche run down back to town via "le Merde du Glace"

Pointe Lachenal

We headed for the little climb of "Star Academixte". A 250mts climb on mostly rock at the grade of M6
The belays are prepared with slings but it dosnt look like its one of the most popular routes here so most of them was in quite bad shape. But better now since we put in new ones at most places on the way back down

Star Academixte M6

Its a really nice climb that has some exposed sections, but mostly well protected. And don't bother to bring any ice screws, the climbing is mostly on perfect rock. And since many of the mixed ones are out of shape at the moment, this is always in!

Star Academixte M6

Star Academixte M6

Star Academixte M6

And as said in the beginning, the return from the climb is just brilliant with skiing all the way down to Chamonix

Equipment
2x50m rope for rappeling
1 small set of wires
3-4mid size Camalots up to no#1
5-6 QD´s


//Ibland känns sanningen mest i sina egna tvivel

Drytooling Servoz - Momus M6 - Ça marche

"Momus"- M6 dry tooling
A bit slow rock dry tooling area, but very nice safe climbing and a superb "ballade" on a rainy day or just for a relaxed safe dry tooling tour
The approach is not much to argue about, 10-15 m and you are there
Walk the same distance up the road and you are at the restaurant for a coffee/espresso
Sport tooling at its best!

at the base of the rock, Servoz, dry tooling area

Well, humus and terre, pitch 1

Cleaner and dryer, Pitch 2

Steeper and a little harder, pure fun and underarm work out, M6! sure!!

Happy!

Approach
Park in the parking lot just before the climbing wall in Servoz, when driving from Chamonix.
The cliff is visible from the bottom, up 10/15 meters into the forest, the name of the routes is written at the base of the climbs

Note: all holes are frankly well marked in red!

Drytooling area seen from the road at Servoz

L1 40m diagonally right, spits close, natural taken a lot of vegetation. 13 points!
L2 20m climb up the ledge, comfortable relay
L3 35m up in the slab and on the right, more curved. Taken out and drilled holes marked in red. M6
L4 beautiful 20m long, a most athletic pitch. M6

You need
2x60m rope
13 QD's
Flow…

Full topi at camp 2 camp
/Ibland har man medvind , ibland blir man blåst...