Travers of the Grand Perron

Great airy ridge offering stunning views of the Mont Blanc

Grand Perron, aim for the small snow field out to the upper right

Enjoyable climbing on mostly good rock and air, and gives a nice ride up to lac d'emosson

 

 

Approche 2h

Cross the dam and turn left the marked trail leading to Loriaz. 400m further leave a little path cairnée (starting at a cairn on a large block in a small valley, before it descent path Loriaz). It then rises slopes increasingly steep gradually pulling right.

On the snowfield seen from the dam

 

After further slopes, climbing a second steep passage a rope may be necessary (2b, exposed).

Then aim for the gap between the two summits of Van (N and S), although drawn on the map: the lower valley is oriented NNE, the upper part is a corridor facing E. Foothold in the valley (common firn) by overcoming a small bar (2b, can pass from the right), and go up the scree to the breach through a narrow corridor to the right

Climb 2-6h

Of the gap, one can easily climb each peak through but usually directly below the summit S by a grassy ledge to gain the main ridge

 

It is relatively easy to the main summit of the Grand Perron (2674m) and to the next gap of the Vouilloz

 

Continue on the crest of the ridge now more delicate and air to the top (all 3b/3c), climb down a little at the foot of which you must leave the edge to get full N (2 bolted anchours , 20 and 25m, do not climb out to the slings on the gendarme) traverse the grassy slopes, through which you can easily reach the next gap (Vouilloz - ifala)

 

The climb up Ifala is the key passage (4a/4b) remain well to the right of the ridge from the breach. Do not go to the characteristic hole/ gap to the left. Then follow the crest of the ridge to the summit

 

Descente1h30

Continue edge now much easier (grass and rock) bypassing obstacles (the left and the right) until the breach Perrons, hence you can easily reach a series of small lakes.

Be careful not to descend any of the corridors, even if there are traces and a cairn, keep the edge all the way to the col!

a Cairne path back to Veudale where you find the path of the Col de la Terrasse (on the left side of the gorge). From there directly to the dam

Remarks:

Edge quite sunny in the morning, dry quick

Fairly level but three ascents and descents

Very good school to learn how to move quickly

The ridge also runs in the other direction but it is more difficult (D).

Material:

Very little in the way of equipment, only bolted rappels (on spits).

A 50m rope is sufficient or 2*25m

small selections of mid size nuts and mid size Cams

4-6QD's, 2-4 longer slings

Eventually crampons for the access early in the season

 

//En delad upplevelse betyder inte att man delat samma händelse

 

Mountainpassion

Majorette Thatcher - a classic crack tour

At Blaitière, 1 1/2h walk from Plan de l'Aiguille téléphérique, there is a number of great climbs. And with an exeption from Nabot Leon, an other classic which is frequent climbed, the other routes doesn't see to keep much traffic these days. But, I might be wrong?!

 

Anyhow, the approach right now, with the amount of snow covering the boulder terrain over plan de l'Aiguille and the remaining of the glaciers, is very sufficient and easy. Specially with the last winters now transformed to solid neve

 

The only issue is to take the right turn once at the brèche and not head straight up glacier du Blaitière.

The climb start at the highest point at the Red Pillar, under a small roof. Which is the crux of the whole route, but good protected with a no.3 Camalot.

The start is accually much easier than it looks at first glance and its possible to protect there when needed. A delicat move out to the right takes you to the first anchour, a couple of meters under the roof.

Arriving after pitch 1, Majorette Thatcher

 

An advice is to climb up to the roof and place the next piece before the second is brought up to the belay, since it's a bit tricky start, at least for a shorter person, and nothing to protect with. So a fall will result in testing the anchour...

 

The roof pitch is just a perfect hand and fist jam, not easier if it's wet for sure...but after a bit of cussing I transform the jam into a layback and so, I'm over it

 

As meteo France had promised an afternoon thunderstorm the goal was to be ahead of it. But fighting with pitch nr.3, which gives a feeling of a never ending story, takes a bit of this time! But since its a much enjoyable crack pitch at almost 50m finishing on a perfect belay on a small pedestal, it's worth every punch

The advertisement for this route is cracks, and cracks there is

 

 

With one and the last pitch to go the clouds are once again sweeping down the walls and just when I have placed the first cam in the last bit of climbing...

-Isn't that something like grêle coming down...?

-It sure is I hear from below!

Great!!

Anna on the last pitch of Majorette Thatcher

Perfect timing and when we a both up and safe on top the pillar all heavens doors opens, like wide!

So just on it, down with the ropes and rap of, thunders in the distans moving in...

An other great day in the mountains...and the thelephrique was even running still once back at plan, thanks for that!

What a bit of hail can do

You need

2x50m rope

A set of Aliens green to red, xtra red useful, a set of Camalots 0.75-3.0, xtra 0.75 useful

A set of wires DMM 1-8

5- 10QD's

Belays are in place and some bolts during the trip

Majorette is the line to the left

 

//Även en kättare måste tro på något. Om så bara på sanningen i sitt egna tvivel

 

Mountainpassion

La Maladière - Noli Me Tangere 7a+

La Maladière - Noli Me Tangere 7a+,  270m

Sustained and and plesant, often very athletique but very enjoyable.

With a surpraising, almost bizarre traverse, could maybe be the best line on the wall, at least one of them

Starting with the obligatory rappel to the base, the struggling fight with the loose trail at the bottom and its ticks

Walk as far as the rock above looks climbable, at the start of the climb there is a perfect belay tree and voilá, you arrive at the climb. 

Pitch 1, the first 6b+

The first pitch, 6b, a very nice focusing pitch that heads out right and gives you what is the mark of the whole route, air!

Technical climbing on Noli me Tangere, 7a+

Second one, a most steepisch pitch at 6b and about 40m technical climbing. remember to enjoy because after that the maraton starts with 6c, 6b, 7a+, 7a+, 7a,7a...oh la la

Specially pitch no. 7 is to remember, but no panic, it is well équipé, even though the roof passage is at the upper end of 7a!?

The climbing is memorable and every pitch is on solid rock, and the route finding is very obvious, just follow the bolts...!

Traversee bizarr, pitch 7

Steep and airy, great climbing

Pitch 4

The whole route has perfect bolts, and you find them where its necessary, look for the s.k plaquettes Suisse.

The route Cobra-cobana starts at the same place but has plaquettes Italién, but Tangere heads of to the right

You need

2x50m rope

12 QD´s

Extra biners and slings for the upper belays, after pitch 5 the bolts are not tied togheter

Désir de l'air...

le Sommet!

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