Kliff Sellette

Kortel Design har gjort det igen.

Sellette Kliff, 230gr

 

Kända för att producera nytänkande med innovativa selar för Paraponte och speedflying. Med selar som Karver och Kruyer har dom på många sätt legat steget före

 

Nu kommer den, hitintills, mest ultimata selen för Paralpinism, Kliff

Med en vikt på 230gr och helt integrerad med vilken vanlig klättersele som helst så märks inte Kliff av överhuvud. Redo att användas när den behövs...génial !

I kombination med en skärm som Ozone Xxlite...så har du ett optimalt lättvikts paket på 1043gr!

Känn då den!!

 

 

//Tvivel håller tron levande!

 

Mountainpassion

L'eau rance d'Arabie - 6b/UIAA VII, 250m

L'eau rance d'Arabie - 6b/UIAA VII, 250m

As said before, the approach to Blaitiere is most easy and well worth the effort of its 1 1/2h walk. This late in the season it's not even necessary with crampons or even a piolet.

Nice to have, le piolet, but not necessary at the moment. But things change...

 

One the walls best and to its grade persistant route on the red pillar is told to be "L'eau". So, we just had to climb it!

Once again, the slab climbing in Chamonix is hard like in Hard! A crack 6b isn't even close to what a slab 6b will give you, in my opinion at least...

The first pitch has a crack though, but the moves are still closer to slab and pure friction. But very good protected, actually the route it self is a bit over protected with bolts, still in my opinion...

Pitch one, 6b! Anna Backlund over gravity

Every single pitch has enjoyable climbing and its not until the last one on the original route that it's possible to relax.

 

The line is very obvious except on the third pitch wich follows some flakes but instead of continue up the flakes and cracks the route falls back to the left and finish over again some slabs, just aim for the bolted anchor. All which are perfect the whole way.

 

Climbing L'eau gives everything from slab to finger cracks and one the second last pitch even a great off width, have no#4 Camalot ready, or bigger...

Sadly it's places a totally unnecessary bolt at the top though

Second last pitch on L'eau, a little offwidth amusement drôle

 

The summit is very obvious and then it's just to rappel back mo or less the same way

Early morning at le lac

 

You need

2x50m rope, or rappel line

Small set of mid size cablés

Set of cams Green-Red Alien, 0.75-4 Camalot

5-7QD's

Route 119

 

More info on camp to camp

 

//Hellre skapa rykten än att bara sprida dem...

 

Mountainpassion

Voie Rebuffat aiguille de Peigne

The north west pillar on the upper part of Peigne has some well kept secret cracks. Well, maybe not so secret since they are visible from the village of Cham. But anyhow

Aig du Peigne

Cracks that Monsieur Rebuffat off course has found out and climbed long time ago. But still holds its grade and gives some great pitches of everything from fingers, rattle, up to heavy duty off width!

 

The alarm set on to early I feel a lot for just staying in my comfortable bed. But after a couple of snoozes I pull myself out and get downstairs for a good coffee to start with

I can't really see the point if heading away with the first lift for this small, short and quite easy tour...

Our plan, head up to plan de aiguille, walk up to Peigne and climb Lepidoptere. And then scramble up to the upper face and the NO pillar of the Peigne. The beautiful Rebuffat cracks, which is said to seldom be climbed

One reason off course would be that it's loong way to get to, second that its supposed to be quite hard regarding the altitude and grade, up to UIAA VII/6c

Arriving at the base their is an other team just heading off the second pitch. But Lepidoptere is a quite active route so not suprised. We just take it slow for a while giving them some time

 

A super cold morning makes one mostly want to keep to "slabjamming", fist wise sort off...The first pitches up to the Papillon arête goes quick and easy, despite the cold air. At some places their is even a thin layer of ice covering the rock. But it's easy to avoid. Up at the arête we can finally get some heating sun on our frozen souls and the going goes even easier

Classic "slab jamming"...

After a pitch of airy but easy climbing on the arête we continue climbing together just short roping. But it's quite a lot of scrambling to get to the upper wall, but all on very easy terrain

At 12:00 we are happily standing below the first Rebuffat pitch. And to our surprise one more team as well with the same intention. A team from Tasmania off all places!

We share some belays and stories but at the finger crack crux they decide to take it a bit slower so we leave them behind

The finger crack

Actually seen all the way from the valley and Cham the crack is just as good as it looks. Perfect fingers at the start getting a bit wider up to hands and open fist higher up. Finishing up to a big ledge below the next interesting part, the off width!

A no#4 cam supports the firsts moves but after a #6 would have been the only choice, or even bigger... Just great excellent climbing on perfect Chamonix granit!

Then it's a short section of easy climbing again before the twin crack pitch. Which also holds an open dièdre and a very suspect downward section that is just made to give some rope drag of the year. Just make sure not to clip the pitons or place any gear. Otherwise you will probably need to climb back to free the rope. Or, maybe the use of twin ropes would be good at this point...?!

 

My single lead rope would be a nightmare so I continue without placing any gear. But, since the climbing is easy on more brilliant cracks that's no issue

Next thing I know I'm under the summit it self. And judge of my suprise... A train scoup is to be found on the top!

Anna, playing the angry train...woman...doing to well...!

Time to head down... To a loong waiting cup of java and a nice bivvy for next days climbing...

Evening over le Plan, tres bien!

 

You need

Voie no81...

1x60m rope(ok for the rappels as well) 1 small set of mid size wires, cams up to #4 Camalot (2 of 0.5-1.0) 5QD's minimum

 

 

 

 

// att definiera betyder att utestänga och begränsa...

 

Mountainpassion